Haircare Information (Shampoo, Conditioners, Reconstructors, Hair Color & Perms)

Shampoo
Conditioner
Hair Masques
Finding a Hair Care Regimen For You
Having Your Hair Cut - It really isn't a nightmare!
To Perm or Not To Perm
Coloring Your Hair!
Susan's Hair Tips!
Related Links
Ask A Hair Question On Our Message Board! RECOMMENDED!

Well, it all started for me at about age 13. My cousin, Desiree, and I bought those cheap frosting kits that have that harsh bleach to put highlights in your hair. It came with a little brush, a cheap plastic tray, cheap powdered bleach and instructions. Oh, all in the name of beauty we sat there with that horrid smelling itchy chemical on our heads to attain that sought after sun drenched look. More like that cheap "hi-I-bleach-my-hair-with-a-kit-look." Well, it started out with streaks and highlights to full blown 2 kit total head bleaching. I look back and cringe when I think of the yellow hue and how badly I needed a toner! Good grief. Needless to say, both of us go to a professional, now.

However it took me many years of going back and forth to bottles of Miss Clairol color and bottles of 40 volume lift from the beauty store to a professional stylist. And you know what... those beauty stores really rip you off. Now that I have friends in the business they get my products for me and good Lord! What a savings! All I know is that I am very sketchy about letting a stranger with a pair of scissors anywhere near my locks. I had a bad experience with my great aunt, who has one of those in-home beauty "parlors." Egad! She was so rough on my sensitive head, plus she chopped my bangs off and gave me a perm that resulted in a hellish nightmare that lasted forever! I cried as I looked at what resembled a poodle with a bad hair day. Never again, I vowed. Now I kind of ease into a stylist. Testing the waters so to speak. And she still sometimes surprises me with a little more length cut off than what I ask for. It makes me want to cry but you know she IS right, I did need that damage cut off.

Here are some basics of Haircare and styling, although I suggest going to a specialist if you have a problem or need advice.

Products: Shampoos, Conditioners & Hair Masques - Oh My!
Like I have said before, everyone has something to sell. There is ever feasible product imaginable out there just waiting for you to either benefit from or waste your money on. Here are some basic tips and problem-specific solutions. Your hair is a direct reflection of what's going on in the inside. And since it takes so incredibly long (half inch a month growth average) treat it well once it does grow out.

Shampoo: The main function of a shampoo is to remove the oils secreted by the scalp. It also should easily remove product build up without stripping the hair of its natural oils completely. Here the many different types and their specific functions:

Baby Shampoo: These products are very gentle and do not contain any harsh chemicals that may irritate the skin and eyes. BUT! my friend, Susan, told me that these shampoos have a pH of 8, same as the eye, and that is why it doesn't sting your eyes. However, she said leave it for the babies. It doesn't give your hair what it needs. You need a shampoo that has a pH of 4.5 to 5.5 - Read below for "Susan's Hair Tips" for more!

Violet Shampoo: These shampoos contain pigments to filter out the yellowing in gray and blonde hair. I use one of these to take the "brassiness" out of my hair between colorings. They can be drying if they contain lighteners, which most of them do.

Clarifying Shampoo: This is a good product to remove product build up and excess oil. It contains no conditioning agents so I'd advise to condition a little after if you want to get a comb through your hair without damaging it.

Pigment Containing Shampoo: you may be familiar with Henna containing shampoos for brown hair and Violets for blondes. Along the same lines as the Violet Shampoos but for darker hair to enrich the color or lengthen the color between salon visits.

Conditioning Shampoo: These products contain added conditioners to simplify the washing showering process. Great for men and children but I don't use these. I need heavier conditioners.

Moisturizing Shampoo: These products contain agents that moisturize rather than stripping. I use TIGI Bedhead moisture maniac PLUS a moisturizing conditioner by ABBA, called Moisture Scentsation. And even a few times a week I use a Lange protein additive with the ABBA conditioner. I also like a detangler, but we'll get to that later.
Dandruff Shampoo: These are coal tar shampoos and medicated products that ease the flaking and itching of this condition. I find this product to dry out the hair. I had to use a Neutrogena coal tar shampoo for about 3 weeks due to some winter itching. My hair got so dried out. Also, I have heard that if you accustom your scalp to the constant use of this product it can become "addicted" to it. This has not been proven.

Volumizing or Body Shampoo: This product contains agents that cause the hairshaft to swell. It will not give you added thickness however. It contains little or no conditioning agents.

Conditioner: The function of a conditioner is to coat the hair shaft to smooth down the damaged hair shaft, provide protection from curling irons and environmental elements. It can tone down frizziness and ease combing wet hair or brushing dry hair. Personally, I can NOT function without some sort of conditioner. I have fine hair so I can't use a really heavy product or it weighs down the shaft. I must use a moisturizing conditioner and a protein complex once or twice a week. Here are some typical conditioning formulas.

Instant Conditioner: This is really good for normal or slightly damaged hair. It is a light formula that quickly conditions the hair leaving it looking healthy and protected. This is not a good choice for fine hair. It can weigh the shaft down creating "flatness" and build up resulting in the need for a clarifying shampoo. Do not over condition.

Finishing Rinse: This product is good for very fine, limp hair. It does not weigh down the hair shaft unnecessarily and doesn't have a high build up rate. Although it will not provide enough conditioning properties for overly damaged or dry hair.

Conditioning Packs/Masques: For excessive damage from over-processing or wind and sun damage, chlorine damage and heating elements. This is a good choice to provide deep conditioning for extremely damaged hair or for an every once in a while pack to treat dry hair. If you're hair is breaking you may need moisture although from too much protein you can have breakage as well. Additionally, too much moisture can make the hair feel soggy and really stretchy. But then again so can damage from harsh chemicals. I know this seems confusing so visit a knowledgeable stylist to help you with your hair woes.

Pigment-containing Conditioner: These are additional to the pigment containing shampoos for added depth of color. I use a violent based conditioner very rarely. The formulations for darker hair are better than the ones for lighter shades as the lighter formulation may be drying. Henna conditioners are a good start for deep brown tones whereas walnut is better for darker shades.

Detangler/Leave-in Conditioner: Life would be very difficult for me if it were not for detanglers. As a child I always had a detangler and even started using the Johnson&Johnson baby detangler in the last two years all over again. It is cheap and I only use a small amount. It does not irritate the scalp and is gentle enough for a baby. It helps for that extra oomph when I need the additional detangling properties without the extra expense. Good for the gym and after swimming! Although my stylists hates when I use it, she will have to live with it -- or give me free products.

Finding a Haircare Regimen For YOU

Normal Hair: If your hair is not too oily, not too dry, not to thick or thin nor damaged from over processing you have normal hair. If you must wash your hair every day you should use a moisturizing shampoo like TIGI Bedhead moisture maniac shampoo or better and a finishing rinse or light conditioner like TIGI Bedhead moisture maniac conditioner. It is not too harsh nor too light -- kinda inbetween. If you spend a lot of time in the sun or riding motorcycles (or horses) or if you lead an active lifestyle that tosses your locks to the elements you should use a clarifying shampoo once a month or whenever you feel like you have build up and a good protein pack left on for 10-15 minutes.

Dry Hair: If your hair is brittle and frizzy or lacks shine then you probably have dry hair. I wouldn't recommend washing your hair every day but if you must, you should use a moisturizing shampoo like TIGI Bedhead moisture maniac shampoo and an instant conditioner. Use a good leave in conditioner on the ends if possible. Once a week leave the instant conditioner on for at least five minutes while you do other things such as shave or whatever. Once a month you should use a good protein pack treatment.

Oily Hair: If your hair seems to over produce oil and your roots just seem greasy you , my dear, have oily hair. You should use a shampoo for oily hair and concentrate on the scalp. You don't necessarily have to thoroughly wash your hair from roots to ends every day. You can instead scrub the scalp gently with the shampoo and when you rinse your hair, both the shaft and ends will be washed by the suds cascading over it.

Fine/Limp Hair: If your hair seems thin, straight and flat you may have fine/limp hair. You should use a volumizing shampoo and every other day use a light conditioner or finishing rinse, only on the ends. Once a week, especially if you use a lot of styling products, use a clarifying shampoo. You can also try having your hair professionally colored to add volume.
Thick/Coarse Hair: If your hair feels rough and is pretty thick, resembling horse hair you may have thick/coarse hair. You should use a moisturizing shampoo like TIGI Bedhead moisture maniac and an instant conditioner. Use a clarifying shampoo about once a week in addition to a heavier conditioner or protein pack for chemically processed hair. About once a month, use a protein pack left on for about 30 minutes.

Having Your Hair Cut: It really isn't a nightmare!

I know most of you don't want your hair cut. But you HAVE to. Honestly, it took me many years to learn that you need a trim regularly to keep the breakage from traveling up the hair shaft. Especially if you have fine hair, prone to breakage. It just has to be done, period. Besides, damaged long hair looks downright nasty!

Above-the-Shoulder Cuts: This is best for just about every woman of every age group, but is especially beneficial to woman who have fine, limp hair. Add layers around the face to create the illusion of more body.
Bangs: This is a good haircut for those of you that may have a high or large forehead. It is especially beneficial to those of you that have have a long face and want long hair as well. It balances out the look.
Long Hair: This is great if you have a heart shaped face or a round face. Make sure you get regular trims to keep breakage at bay! You should go no longer than 3 months without a trim!
Cutting Your Long Hair Short: Tell your stylist to cut off half the length you wish to cut, ease into it. It is easier to cut off a little more than to grow a lot out. You may just shock yourself into a depression!
Curly Hair: If your hair is long and thick -- great! If it isn't -- your hair is going to look straggly. Fine, limp curls should be kept above the shoulder to minimize the appearance of well -- fine, limp locks! It just isn't flattering. And if you have limp or fine hair, don't over layer your hair, it does not give your style body, it looks unkempt. A few around the face with a few highlights (or lowlights) will benefit you.
Short to Long: Oh how glacial this process is! And you just hate to trim the ends to add to the fullness. But you must. Your hair needs to be trimmed to stop the damaged ends in its tracks. I know it may look short at first, but it will grow, I promise. Your hair will look fuller in the end.

WARNING! Choose an experienced stylist, and one who is open to YOUR desires. No matter what you and I think, A bad haircut does not justify homicide. Even if it is in the heat of passion -- with his or her own scissors! Know before you go. Also, you get what you pay for! And for goodness' sake, don't upset your stylist!

To Perm, Or Not To Perm: A Very Important Question!

Most of us have had the memory of a bad perm. It is the equivalent of a mental scar, and a deep one at that. Do you have any idea how long it takes for one of these to grow out? I was scarred emotionall for many years (okay I am exaggerating) because of a bad perm and 6th grade is not the time to get experimented on by your beautician great aunt. Yes, I said beautician. Egad! Here are some tips with which to educate the masses before they go down the same road I did. Also included: tips on straightening (relaxing).

WARNING! Don't do this yourself, period. I mean it! If you do you run the risk of losing hair, damaging your hairshaft irreversibly and otherwise suffering for months to come. Go to a professional technician, some stylists still can't pull this off.
Perming and Haircolor: Choose to Perm or Straighten the hair BEFORE you color! Besides, most stylists refuse to color (especially bleach) after a client has a perm. It simply damages an already damaged cuticle more so. Semi-permanent coloring is suggested.
Perming by Definition: Your hair is tightly wound (depending on the desired result) around curlers of various sizes. A harsh chemical is applied to the hair to "pen the shaft (or to rough it up) and break down the rods in your hairshaft. Then a second chemical is poured on that actually closes the rods or makes the hair retain whatever shape it is in (the curlers). It is kept in for a bit to process and then rinsed out. They carefully unwind the curlers from your hair and you don't get to wash it for days. It is best to wait for as long as you can without getting it wet. Plus even though the formulas have been improved, it still stinks! Straightening works the same way but minus the curlers. They comb your hair straight and if it starts kinking up again they comb it some more, forcing the hairshaft to straighten in addition to the weight of the water and chemicals.
Pre-Perm: Treat your hair to a few Clarifying shampoos beforehand (especially if you use a lot of products) to strip the hair of its greasy and sticky build up from products and hard water (mineral deposits) can prevent the perm chemicals from penetrating evenly.
Haircut/Perm: Cut AFTER you perm. That way the style and cut will be designed with the new texture and shape (curl) of the hair. However, if you are going to go dramatically shorter then the stylist should cut your hair a little longer than the desired end result and then process, cutting after the perm is complete.
Risks: First and foremost, these are chemicals. They can burn and irritate the scalp. Do not subject your scalp to chemicals if it is scratched, sunburned or whatever. Also, your scalp (if you're a woman) is more sensitive right before your period and it can absolutely drive you nuts to have chemicals on you scalp. You will be climbing the walls, itching your head with the point of a pick or comb. you run the risk of losing clumps of hair, especially if your hair is chemically processed prior to getting a perm. You can loose hair if the solution is left on to long as well.
Processing Time: Beware of the stylist who does not use a timer for perms or forgets how long you have the chemicals in. Ask what time and how long it will be processing for and keep track yourself. Don't hesitate to alert the stylist when your time's up.
Re-dos: How I wish this didn't happen. There are quite a few times that a perm or coloring does not take place. If your perm does not live up to your standards you should really wait a while before getting a new one (a re-do). You could REALLY damage your hair. It simply isn't worth it.
Perm After-care: Take care of your hair. It is bad enough you cannot wash your hair until a few days afterward, the longer the better. Use a gentle shampoo, a stronger conditioner and protect your hair chlorine, the sun and excessive heat from curling irons and blow-dryers.

More on perming: There are many types of perming techniques involving basically all the same types of strong chemicals. There are Alkaline perms which is a strong formulation using ammominium thioglycolate which is by far the strongest, longest lasting and the smelliest. They are the best formulation for very hard-to-curl hair or for creating a very tightly curled do. There are acid-balanced perms which contain a far gentler chemical called glyceryl monothioglycate. It has a lower pH and is good for fine, thin hair or hair that has been previously processed. It is also your best option for a natural, softer curling effect. These must be left on longer or processed with the help of heat sources, like those over-the-head driers you see at salons.

The techniques vary as well...

Traditional Perm: This technique involves curling or waving the entire head of hair. Rods are usually placed horizontally but there are many configurations that can be done to obtain certain looks or for certain hairstyles or if you have a severe cowlick. This also depends upon curl (rod) size.
Body Wave Perm: This involves larger diameter rods (curlers) to create a softer wave instead of a tighter curl. It is a more natural look rather than the curlier types.
Reverse Perm: This is a form of straightening naturally tight curls to a more relaxed wavy shape. Instead of a head full of tightly wound curls with this technique you receive softer larger curls.
Spiral Perm: The hair is rolled vertically rather than horizontally resulting in ringlets or corkscrew-like curls. A lot of women with long straight hair get spiral perms.
Root Perm: I don't believe in these if roots are permed only for volume or lift. They grow out horribly but if it is for maintenance of a perm, that is fine. The rods are placed only at the root area to curl or give lift to that area only.
Spot Perm: The rods are placed in certain areas only that need or body or a slight curl to better a style or make it more manageable.

Straightening one's hair...

Straightening: A strong chemical, usually sodium hydroxide, is applied tot he hair and combed through. The hair is forced to remain straight with the wait of the chemical and the combing. The hair is then rinsed of its straightener and neutralized to maintain its desired shape -- straight. My brother does this. hehe Don't tell him I told you.

Relaxing/Relaxer: Normally people think of a relaxer as a straightener but there is a difference. A relaxer can be used to straighten, reduce frizz or for smoothing out curls. It doesn't necessarily mean to completely straighten the hair.

Texturizing/Chemical Blowout: A relaxer is comb through the hair and left in briefly to loosen the curl pattern. The hair is straightened slightly which makes it appear longer and improves manageability.

Soft Curl Perm: This is a two-part styling process using a thio-type relaxer to reshape the hairs natural curl. The relaxer is applied and the hair is combed straight making it flexible and more manageable. Then the hair is rinsed and rolled onto perm rods to create a new curl pattern. The thio relaxer is reapplied and and the hair rinsed yet again and neutralized allowing the hair to assume the shape of the rods. Thus, creating a new curl.

Furthermore... if your hair needs to be retouched GO TO A PROFESSIONAL! Or you will not have any hair left to curl. If the chemicals overlap a section of hair that is already straightened or permed you are in deep trouble, baby. DEEP! Coloring Your Hair! A lot of us color our hair, most for aesthetic reasons, some for building up the hair shaft for thickness (very slight) and some to cover up the gray. Here are a few tips on Haircoloring.

WARNING! This is a chemical as well. This can burn you make your hair fall out (when bleaching) and damage it if not treated nicely. By the way, your hair is dead just because you beef up your diet or take supplements doesn't mean you'll make your hair healthy. Your diet will, however, make the hair that has yet to grow, grow out nice and healthy. So, when that healthy hair comes out - take care of it.

Choose a flattering color: Not every one can wear that fire engine drop-dead red or platinum blonde. I can't wear my favorite haircolor, eggplant (burgundy) -- although I HAVE, it did not look good on me; it washed my complexion out. Choose a color that looks good with your skin tone and eye color. And also choose if you want a natural look or if you don't mind that people can tell you've dyed your hair. H ello? Purple hair isn't a naturally occurring color. (I say: Who cares! I love it!)

Find YOUR formula: This could be temporary (lasting 1 shampoo, maybe 2) where you can play with different hair colors or inbetween touch ups. Semi-permanent, which lasts up to about 12 shampoos. This is great for inbetweens or if you are not ready to make a serious commitment. Also good for enhancing pre-existing color. There are Demi-permanent dyes which are Permanent but have less dye and peroxide than traditional dyes. It adds thickness to fine hair by coating and texturizing. It balances out uneven color the clear glosses add shine to otherwise dull locks. No obvious roots. And past dyed-in-the-wool Permanent. With this there is no going back without a color correction. It roughs up the cuticle to make it feel "thicker". But this is the most damaging and leaves very obvious root color difference.

Pick a Process: There is the ever standard Single process which is the easiest and can be performed at home if given a lesson and the product. There is Double-processing; a service where two steps must be performed to achieve the desired results. DON'T TRY IT! Even most pros can't get this one down without damaging the hair. It is normally done with lightening hair to an extreme after being very dark haired. There is Highlighting which I love! So, does my boyfriend although he is braver than I and gets lowlighting as well. I am not so brave, and I am stubborn. Highlighting is where certain chosen strands to make lighter to create depth and that natural sun drenched look. The Lowlighting is just the opposite where it creates a nice balance and not so obviously dyed look. It creates depth and dimension to lightened hair or lighter scaled colors. There is Toning which I do to balance out my brassy tones that I get sometimes. I get a violet toner mixed in my color when I get my roots done. For some reason she just can't seem to color my hair without getting this yellow overcast. Blah! lastly, there is Filling I have had this done as well. It is the use of color or conditioner or both (like I had) to fill porous hair prior to an application of a final color formula. My hair used to be pretty damaged, but not anymore!

Choose a good stylist. No one wants to get a bad hair-do or have your hair fall out. With this... you get what you pay for. My boyfriend used to go to one of those Super-Cuts type places. You know, 8 bucks for a haircut, men. women or children. I don't think so. It may be expensive but good stylists get paid more for a reason. Also there are cruddy stylists out there too that are making bank to ruin your hair. So, make sure that communication is there between you and a stylist or as my boyfriend said on the Phalloplasty Page... "you may come up short."

Susan's Hair Tips

If your hair is breaking it is in need of a protein pack like CAT by Redken. You can use this once a week but it is strong so only put it on towel dried hair and never leave it on all day or night. Something you should definitely use before any chemical process.
Save the Hot Oil for your car not your hair it adds absolutely no value. Your hair is made up of protein so that is what you need to put back into it.
If you have Limp hair you can apply conditioner from the ears down. just stay off the roots. And use vinegar rinse once a week to get rid of build up.
If you want long hair get yourself some NIOXIN it WILL make your hair grow fast I promise It's also great for men with thinning hair or anyone complaining about excessive hair loss. I even use the 2C for oily hair on my face and I love it (it is also good for acne) .
For highlighted hair, if it seems your hair is getting to yellow it could be from sweat, which has fat in it, and is absorbed into your porous blonde hair (just look at chicken fat). So get the grease out just like you do your dishes get some Dawn dishwashing detergent put on wet hair for ten minutes and then rinse. Don't do this too often as it could severely dry out your hair.
If your hair is sundried use Extreme (Redken) and Vanilla Instant breakfast mix (its all protein). Mix and apply to hair for 10 minutes and rinse.

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